This week’s blog will be a little different. I am taking a step back from my usual DevaCurl posts to inform you all on a FREQUENT issue I see behind my chair…
Rewind several months back. I had a client come in with fine textured hair. Her hair was coated in a whitish substance making her brunette hair appear almost grey. She told me she had trouble with hair loss and keeping her hair from feeling dry. I asked her what she was using. She said Head and Shoulders.
Fast Forward to this week. My lovely client who has been coming to me for about six months now for manicures told me she has been frightened by the amount of hair she has been losing. I asked her what she has been using on her hair. She responded with head and shoulders because it was the only thing that seemed to help her scalp.
As I started to type all of this out, I texted my Fiance’. He has struggled with thinning hair and balding on the crown of his head. I asked him if he had used Head and Shoulders. He responded, yes, for about 10 years.
I am going to give you all a TON of information about scalp health. You are probably going to become tired of the monotonous scrolling you are about to embark on. I am going to thoroughly explain to you how a balanced scalp operates. Trust me. You will want to read this blog.
Dry Scalp… What is it, What Causes it?
There are TWO main sources of dry scalp: lack of hydration/moisture and over cleansing or shampooing your scalp; in the winter months the dry air can be a factor. As previously discussed in my last two posts, most shampoos have sulfates and they can be harsh on your scalp. If overused, the naturally occuring sebum oil in your hair/scalp will be stripped out, causing your scalp to become dry, itchy and flaky.
Dandruff
Dandruff is on the opposite spectrum of dry scalp. Dandruff is the result of the scalp shedding and can be caused by an oily scalp, but primarily caused by fungus
Malassezia globosa and M. restricta.
Similarly to dry scalp, if you excessively wash your scalp, you can cause your scalp to overproduce oil. By cleansing your scalp too much, you are stripping the naturally occuring sebum oil out of your hair. Your scalp will feel the need to produce more because there isn’t enough present. Sebum oil is there to promote healthy growth of the hair and moisturize the scalp and root.
Hair pH
The cuticle layer is the outermost layer of the hair. Its happy pH level is anywhere between a 4.5-5.5. This is acidic. Many shampoos have a basic/alkaline pH which can open the cuticle layer and cause repeated damage. If you are using a shampoo with a basic pH you are essentially drying out the cuticle layer. It will become more susceptible to tangles and to breakage. Without a balanced scalp pH, the growth of fungus and even bacteria can manifest. This can lead to dandruff.
Hair Follicle Anatomy
On your left you will see the anatomy of the hair. Locate the hair follicle. This is is important when it comes to build up of the ingredients I am about to list and survival of the hair. There are multiple hairs growing out of a single follicle. When these follicles become blocked or “clogged” they will begin to shrink. This will cause the existing hair in that follicle to fall out causing thinning and hair loss. Which is why when I have a new curly client, I always wash their hair with Build Up Buster to remove potential build up from the environment and products.
Head and Shoulders Ingredient Break Down
Pyrithione Zinc
Pyrithione Zinc 1% The Active Ingredient. PTZ is the essential ingredient in head and shoulders for demolishing dandruff. “It inhibits the division of fungal cells.” Which as previously discussed when fungus is present on the scalp (which can occur from a clogged follicle) it can lead to dandruff.
From what I have read, this ingredient doesn’t negatively affect the scalp. It truly benefits those with dandruff.
With that said, there were numerous reports of patients in an experiment who had psoriasis that had been stable for several years. When they used shampoo with PTZ, their flare up became severe, resulting in pustular psoriasis. “ Within 20 days, she developed an aggravated scaly erythematous patch on the scalp, where an anti-dandruff shampoo had been applied, and simultaneously developed pustular psoriasis on both forearms. Patch testing showed a relevant sensitization to zinc pyrithione.”
Glycol Distearate
I have done quite a bit of digging from several websites to find information on Glycol Distearate. When I started reading about it, it all clicked.
Glycol Distearate is a white wax solid that is used to thicken up cosmetic products. It is also known for the “pearlized” effect to attract buyers. Other names for glycol distearate include: thylene glycol distearate; Ethylene distearate; Ethylene glycol dioctadecanoate.
“Glycol Distearate is made from ethylene glycol, which is used to make antifreeze, de-icing solutions for cars and planes, hydraulic brake fluids, lacquers, resins, wood stains, synthetic waxes.”
Needless to say, the simple fact that this ingredient is wax and is present in H&S shampoo it is going to cause an undoubtable amount of buildup on your scalp and at the follicle.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sulfate. The cleansing agents that create the lather and foam. SLS has been linked to hair loss. If the shampoo is not thoroughly rinsed from your hair, remaining SLS can protrude into the follicle. When this happens, the hair follicle will deteriorate and hair loss will occur.
“MaximumHair.com reports that SLS also affects the rate of new hair growth, which occurs at a rate about eight times slower than normal. In addition, Personal Health Facts reports that NaCL, the salt used as a thickening agent is drying to your hair and, by increasing the potential for breakage, also contributes to hair loss.”
Which if you note in the ingredient listing, Sodium Chloride (NaCL) is in fact present.
Dimethicone
Silicone.
“Dimethicone (also called polymethylsiloxane) is a silicon-based polymer used as a lubricant and conditioning agent.”
It is a false representation of hydration. It will give your hair slip, but it is actually coating the cuticle layer. This will cause buildup and prevent necessary moisture penetration into the cuticle. Without proper hydration, hair will continue to feel dry and brittle and will become susceptible to breakage.
Methylisothiazolinone
This ingredient is banned for cosmetics in European SCCS, German BFR, Canada, Japan’s Standards for Cosmetics.
While this is a common preservative used in cosmetics in the united states, it has been linked to numerous allergic reactions. It has also been listed as possibly “neurotoxic.”
Quoted from dictionary.com the definition of neurotoxic is stated as such, “Poisonous to the nervous system.”
Powerful Disclaimer
The Procter and Gamble Manufacturing Company has posted this disclaimer regarding Head and Shoulders Clean Classic.
“Most OTC drugs are not reviewed and approved by FDA. However they may be marketed if they comply with applicable regulations and policies. FDA has not evaluated whether this product complies. “
The Procter and Gamble Manufacturing Company also produces Pantene, Herbal Essences, Aussie and Olay.
Should You Use Head and Shoulders?
As a licensed cosmetologist, I do not recommend using this shampoo. The amount of harmful ingredients in this product is not going to be beneficial for your hair. The wax will cause build up, the sulfates will strip the natural sebum from your hair. If you notice that your hair seems thinner and brittle, the use of this product is the reason why. While hair loss may not be immediate, the longer you use this product the it will become noticable.
Where To Go From Here
Go to your stylist. Get a clarifying treatment. Malibu C is my preferred choice for an intense clarifying treatment. Paul Mitchell’s Shampoo Two is also beneficial. Begin the process of removing the build up from your hair and opening up your follicles. You will most likely need a deep condition treatment.
The salt present in H&S Shampoo will cause breakage and brittleness and dehydrate the hair. The HydraTriplex treatment by Paul Mitchell is phenomenal. It simultaneously hydrates and strengthens hair.
Are you glad you read all of this? I hope you are. The more you know about what ingredients are in the products you are using the more you will begin to understand why your hair is responding the way that it is.
Your hair will thank you in the long run.
Sources:
https://naturallclub.com/blogs/the-naturall-club-blog/how-to-maintain-a-healthy-scalp
Hair Anatomy
https://www.self.com/story/scalp-exfoliation
https://www.livestrong.com/article/303970-sodium-lauryl-sulfate-hair-loss/
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/702011/DIMETHICONE/
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/703935/METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE/
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/320988.php
https://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search/a?dbs+hsdb:@term+@DOCNO+4498
https://www.drugbank.ca/drugs/DB06815
Ingredient Watch List: Glycol Distearate, the Fake Pearlescent Thickener
All About That Hair 
This was super interesting to read! I’m proud to say I have never used head and shoulders and never will, haha!
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Thank you!! I am so glad!
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