The greatest struggle my clients have, prior to using DevaCurl, is the arsenal of products they have in their bathroom cabinet. Mouse, gel, cream, hairspray, deep conditioning masks, they have it all but still can’t seem to get their dry, frizzy hair to settle down. It’s simple. It comes down to the three most talked about ingredients in hair care products; sulfates, parabens and silicones. Let’s break each one down.
Sulfates
Sulfates are the “cleaning” agents in shampoo. They create the lathery, suds that remove oil from the scalp. They are known for having one of the most thorough cleansing properties and are classified as an anionic surfactant. Two very common sulfates found in shampoos are sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. Check your shampoo! I bet they are in there!
While sulfates do their job at removing dirt and oil from the scalp, they are not ideal for anyone that has texture in their hair. Wavy, Curly and Super Curly hair crave the essential oil the hair naturally produces. Sulfates are too harsh on this texture type and will strip all necessary essential oil out of the hair. This can lead to dry, brittle feeling hair.
Silicones
Silicone Gel.
The definition of silicone is stated on dictionary.com “any class of synthetic material which are polymers…used to make rubbers and plastic and are in polishes and lubricants.”
Silicones create a silky, smooth feeling in the hair. It is a FALSE identifier of hydration and it is also hydrophobic; meaning it repels water. It is not easily removed from the hair and is a common contributor to build up. Curly hair can begin to feel heavy and weighed down if silicone is present in the product being used. It is incredibly important for curly girls to stay away from any product with silicone. It is going to coat the cuticle of the hair preventing the penetration of any moisture. Hydration is key for curly girls, it is what keeps frizz tame.
Common names for silicone: Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Methicone, Amodimethicone, Dimethiconol, Cyclopentasiloxane.
Parabens
Parabens are chemicals that are commonly used as preservatives in the pharmaceutical and food industry and in cosmetic care.
Parabens are notorious in the medical field. Several studies have been done and have determined that they mimic oestrogen in the body. This can lead to reaching puberty at an earlier age, reproductive issues and links to breast cancer.
While there are naturally occurring parabens that are harmless, be on the lookout for any product with these ingredients: methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben.
Avoid Them!
When it comes down to it, sulfates, silicones and parabens are best avoided! Especially if you are trying to enhance your natural curl, these ingredients can negatively affect your ability to do so.
All DevaCurl products are sulfate, silicone and paraben free.
I am back after a crazy couple of weeks. I am giving a shout to my blondes this week and dedicating a blog on my top two favorite purple shampoos that I use daily in the salon. They are both by Schwarzkopf, they are both super pigmented, and they both knock that brass out of the hair!
Schwarzkopf BC Color Freeze (Silver)
I have used many different purple shampoos in the salon. The first time I used this one, I knew it was a game changer. The violet pigmented shampoo is great for neutralizing pale yellow pigments and helps to brighten up blonde. The longer you leave it sit, the better results you will get. Depending on the porosity of your hair, meaning how susceptible your hair is to absorbing water or any product, will determine how much the pigment will grab. If you have some areas that turn lavender, THAT’S OKAY! It will fade. It is not permanent. You only need to leave it on for a minute or two. But I will tell you, it is my favorite. Especially for those clients that have a hint of yellow after highlighting them. It’s a great thing for them to use at home to help maintain their blonde! On top of it all, it has a pH of 4.5 which is the pH of hair. It will help close up the cuticle and return it to its happy place with no damage.
Schwarzkopf Goodbye Yellow
Goodbye Yellow is a newer release from Schwarzkopf and holy pigmentation is all I have to say! This purple shampoo is deep purple and almost has the appearance of some blue tones. This is amazing for those clients you want to take to that silvery blonde (If they have lifted to the appropriate level) Or for those that have a deeper yellow pigmentation. It is great to use before toning! I have one client that I use this on every single time because it gives her that white blonde she absolutely loves. The thing you have to be careful with with this one, is that it IS super pigmented. If the hair is too porous it will grab the blue tone very quickly. You definitely want to watch this one! If you send it home with your clients, you want to inform them that you only need to leave it on for a minute or less, if they are okay with picking up those blue tones they can leave it on longer. But again, it depends on the porosity of their hair. Just like the color freeze silver, it will fade, it is not a permanent color. You can even rewash with your regular shampoo to help eliminate the blue hue. BUT, with all of that said. This pigmentation is unlike anything I have used before. It really knocks out the warmth in the hair and creates such a beautiful blonde. Most of the time, I don’t need to tone after using this one.
Bottom Line…
I have used several different purple shampoos. Everything from Brass Off by Matrix, purple shampoo from Paul Mitchell, Shimmer Lights by Clairol, the list goes on. But these two have truly been a game changer and I get the results I LOVE with them. You will not be disappointed with either of them!
Have you ever wondered what is in your mascara? What gives it that ability to darken your lashes and last for quite a long time? I wanted to know. So I looked up the most common ingredients and researched them.
Petrolatum
Many of the ingredients are petroleum based.
Petrolatum- or petroleum jelly, is not often adequately refined in the united states. Because of this, the possibility for it to be contaminated with PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) is high. The health concern with this is cancer. “A study on Long Island, NY, found that those women with high levels of PAH-DNA adducts had a 50 percent greater risk of breast cancer. The formation of PAH-DNA adducts, an indicator of PAH exposure, is linked to cancer development.”
Lanolin
For all of my vegan friends, this is an important ingredient to avoid. Lanolin is a wax that is secreted from the sebaceous glands of any animal with wool, most commonly sheep. The lanolin allergy is rapidly increasing as it is in most beauty products these days. While they are present in mascara, they are also used in popular lip balms such as Carmex, diaper rash creams, and nipple creams.
Thimerosal
Thimerosal is a mercury-based preservative used in mascara. It has been known to cause conjunctivitis (pink-eye) and eyelid dermatitis(a irritating rash). Thimerosal is also a topic of concern regarding vaccines because this ingredient is present in them.
While researching Thimerosal, I found that while the FDA did ban most mercury products in 1974, they made an exception for cosmetics for intended use on the eye i.e. eyeliners and mascaras, but only as a preservative. ” FDA recognized that certain mercury-containing preservatives are exceptionally effective in preventing Pseudomonas bacterial contamination of cosmetics.” While it may be effective in preventing bacteria.
I think I will pass on using cosmetics that have even the slightest trace of mercury in it.
Why I am Sticking With Arbonne!
Speak Volumes Mascara Retail Value $30
It’s Really a Long Story Retail $39
Arbonne has two mascaras. Both of which I use and LOVE. They do not flake, they are lightweight, chemical free, vegan, cruelty free; the list goes on and on. Both mascaras are loaded with vitamins to help lengthen, define, curl, and volumize.
Green Tea and larch extract help to create the look of fuller, longer lashes in the new Speak Volumes Mascara. Smudge-resistant, lightweight formula stays in place comfortably, yet can be easily removed at the end of the day without tugging, helping to minimize lash fall-out.
To conclude this blog post, I wanted to add that even though I only included a few of the ingredients commonly found in mascara, there are so much more. I mentioned mineral oil in my last blog, it too is found in mascara. Arbonne has really made a difference in my family’s life and I hope it does yours too.
Comment below if you are interested in learning more about chemical free products Arbonne has to offer!
Mineral oil is common in many make-up removers, BABY products and pretty much every “oil” based product you will buy over the counter. It’s an ingredient that should be avoided at all costs on the simple fact it’s terrible for your skin.
What is Mineral Oil?
As stated on dictionary.com, this is the definition of mineral oil, “a distillation product of petroleum, especially one used as a lubricant, moisturizer, or laxative.”
Did you catch that? Petroleum. To further that, here is the definition of petroleum, ” a liquid mixture of hydrocarbons that is present in certain rock strata and can be extracted and refined to produce fuels including gasoline, kerosene, and diesel oil; oil.”
It’s misleading. You think mineral, you think natural/healthy. But that’s not necessarily true.
Baby oil is simply “perfumed” mineral oil. It is almost entirely mineral oil. You can find it under surnames such as “petrolatum” and “paraffinum.”
Why is it in so many cosmetic products and creams? Cost. It’s inexpensive. It’s strictly in these products because it’s cost efficient and has no benefit for your skin.
Before the creation of synthetic oil, mineral oil was primarily used as a mechanical lubricant.
Mineral oil provokes acne and causes premature aging of the skin. It acts as saran wrap on the body, coating it. It doesn’t allow anything in or out of your body, which is the main function of the skin; a barrier to let necessary nutrients in and push out the bad. With no nutrients getting through mineral oil’s barrier, according to livestrong. com “The mineral oil attracts needed moisture from cells deep inside your skin, cell renewal is slowed, collagen breaks down, and the connective tissue is destroyed.”
Read the Ingredients. Stay Away From it!
Frequent use of mineral oil can lead to several negative hormone disruptions. Some include, endometriosis and ovarian disruption.
Cheaper isn’t always better. Look at your ingredients. Don’t put mineral oil on your babies at all costs!
Stay away from Johnson and Johnson’s baby care products and many others too, especially the baby oil. They include synthetic dyes, sulfates, silicones, fragrance, glycol distearate (wax derived from ethylene glycol, if you remember from my previous blog, which is mainly used in antifreeze.)
Knowledge is Power. Until next blog!
Check out these sources below. Listed is the link to Arbonne’s baby care line. Safe, Clean and Pure. (Fragrance, synthetic dyes and SO many other ingredients are BANNED.)
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is in just about every foaming product you find on the shelves; shampoo, body wash, hand soap, toothpastes, lotions, sunscreen, you name it, SLS is most likely in it.
I have been wanting to blog solely about SLS. There is controversy surrounding this ingredient. It’s in everything. Why?
SLS is an anionic detergent and surfactant that creates a foamy lather everyone loves when they are shampooing or soaping up in the shower. SLS is listed as a moderate hazard. It has been linked to cancer, neurotoxicity, organ toxicity, skin irritation and endocrine disruption.
The Environment Canada Domestic Substance List has SLS listed as a concern and “expected to be toxic or harmful.” Specifically a high concern for irritation in the eyes, skin and lungs.
With even the slightest concern of toxicity to us, why put it in our products? To me, it doesn’t make sense. I can’t comprehend it.
SLS has been deemed safe in the States on a single factor. When washing your hair or cleansing with soap, it is quick. It is meant to be rinsed off. The short period of time that it is in contact with your skin, it shouldn’t affect you. As long as SLS stays under 1% in any product, the FDA approves it.
In a previous blog I made regarding Head and Shoulders I noted that because SLS is an irritant, if not completely rinsed from the scalp it can cause hair loss due to the irritation it causes in the follicle.
SLS is still a noted sulfate. From my cosmetologist standpoint, it should be avoided if you have colored hair. It infact will fade your color.
My journey for finding products that are clean, chemical free and safe has become successful with the discovery of Arbonne. SLS and a similar sulfate SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) are two of the many ingredients banned in Arbonne products.
What are you putting on your skin? Have you done your ingredient research? It’s detrimental to your health you become your own advocate and learn what you are putting on and in your body.
After my in depth research regarding the negative effects of Head and Shoulders. I was intrigued. It is not just Head and Shoulders that contain these harmful ingredients, but many and most products.
“Your skin absorbs 60% of what you put on it. Anything you put on your skin is absorbed into your bloodstream within 26 seconds.”
So why are we putting chemicals in our hair and on our skin? Parabens are a known endocrine disruptor and a commonly used preservative. They are in 75%-90% of all skin care and beauty products.
Phthalates are KNOWN endocrine disruptors, respiratory toxins and can cause infertility in men and birth defects. They are usually hidden under the name of Fragrance of Perfume. Sulfates are suspected to be contaminated with carcinogens, specifically 1,4 dioxane. The list goes on and on..
The desire to find products that will only benefit me has been a heavy weight on my shoulders. I have continuously used Arbonne products since I was in high school and loved them. I realize now, they are one of the few companies that adhere to quality and purity.
Arbonne products have banned over 2,000 chemicals. The European union has banned 1,400 chemicals in their products.
The United States has banned 30.
It’s unbelievable, really. I could go on and on. I am in true disbelief that chemicals banned in Europe are not banned in the United States. It’s dangerous. Many are carcinogens.
Arbonne stands out from most companies stating the importance of their pure, safe and beneficial products. Most importantly, they work. They have make-up, which I love. Skin care, Which I also love and an incredible health and wellness line with ingredients that are all naturally derived.
I will attach the link so you can scroll through the list of ingredients Arbonne has banned. Stay tuned! I am excited to give you my top 5 favorite Arbonne products. Hopefully this week! I am excited to be on this new journey. Bettering myself and my health.
After using High Shine for the first time, I have to say I was incredibly impressed. Most shine sprays are immensely heavy and tend to weigh the hair down. Not this finishing spray! This formula is super light weight and will last you a LONG time. You only need a small amount. A little goes a long way. There are five beneficial main oils in this formula.
Ingredient Break Down
The five oils in high shine are coconut oil, flaxseed oil, babassu oil, passion fruit oil and pequi oil. There are no silicones, NO sulfates, including sodium lauryl sulfate (which is detrimental, as discussed in a previous blog post), no mineral oil and contains less than 1% of synthetic fragrance; which in today’s beauty world, it is almost unheard of to have a product without synthetic fragrance.
Coconut oil in this formula is the frizz tamer. Flaxseed oil gives the hair nutrients and strength. Babassu oil gives hair light weight shine without leaving build up in your curls. Which as many curly girls know, in order to have healthy, hydrated curls, the products you use cannot leave residue in your hair… Otherwise you have to deal with frizz. Pequi oil also aids in taming frizz while helping to define curls. Lastly, and MOST importantly, passion fruit oil infuses moisture into your curls making them luscious and hydrated.
How do I use it?
My personal favorite way to use it is to spray it on my hands to get a more controlled application. I will then run it through the ends of the hair and (gently) scrunch up as a finishing touch. You can spray all over your hair while it’s wet, before air drying or diffusing.
Who is it for?
All curl types! I, personally, love to use it on all textured hair types. Of course I use it on my curly girls, but I love it for my coarse haired ladies to tame flyaways and give a smooth, light-weight shine finishing touch!
If you haven’t tried it, I definitely suggest it! Like I said earlier in this post, you only need a small amount. I use one to two sprays in my hand before applying to the hair. Somethings two sprays is too much. Just be mindful of that!
Your hair will thank you for using this silicone/sulfate free product!
The more I dig into Paul Mitchell products, I have a new found obsession with the Awapuhi line. It benefits anyone with coarse textured hair/damaged hair/dry hair. It will help hydrate and tame frizz. It’s a great alternative for those curly girls who like to smooth their hair out on occasion.
What is Awapuhi?
Awapuhi Plant
Awapuhi or “Shampoo Ginger” is a plant found in Hawaii. Awapuhi was originally from Polynesia, but was brought over during colonization. It is closely related to ginger you would use in cooking. When you squeeze the outer casing of this plant, it releases a clear, ginger scented, liquid. This liquid is sap and is commonly used in shampoos and body soap. Awapuhi is known for its hydrating qualities.
Awapuhi Treatments
The two treatments Awapuhi offers are the Keratriplex treatment and the Hydratriplex Treatment. These are intense treatments for those with color-treated, chemically treated, chemically treated and DRY, dry and frizzy hair. They can be used individually, with the proper corresponding shampoo, or simultaneously to help troubles with breakage AND parched hair. These treatments are for professional use only.
Keratriplex Treatment
Keratriplex Treatment (Salon Use Only)
The Keratriplex Treatment is completed in two simple steps. It is ideal for anyone who has brittle, fragile hair. It aids in sealing the cuticle to prevent color fading, adding shine and strengthening damaged hair.
We start with the moisturizing lather shampoo which is loaded with keratin and wheat proteins to repair the hair. The KeraTriplex is applied and topped with the Keratin Intensive Treatment. The Keratin Intensive treatment has keratin, white ginger, vegetable protein(which you can purchase at the salon). Next, you will sit under the dryer for 10 minutes and then we rinse out the treatment and style.
Hydratriplex Treatment
Hydratriplex Treatment
This one is one of my all time favorite. It is paired with the mirror smooth shampoo which is why I love it so much. The mirror smooth shampoo(available for purchase in the salon) has abyssinian seed oil, white ginger and lots of keratin. It truly helps to tame frizz and and hydrate hair. I use this shampoo on all of my coarse haired clients.
Back to the HydraTriplex. This treatment is wonderful for those who are struggling with dry or frizzy hair. The treatment contains jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, white ginger, keratin, macadamia seed oil and wheat proteins.
First, we shampoo hair and rinse. We apply the HydraTriplex treatment and you process under heat for 10-15 minutes. Rinse! Style! DONE. Both the KeraTriplex and HydraTriplex treatments are fast and effective.
I have personally had this treatment done and the way my hair feels after is INCREDIBLE. It was silky smooth. Where I have ends that have been lightened multiple times; they are damaged and dry. This treatment helped smooth them out and strengthen them.
Styling Products
The Awapuhi styling products are also just as incredible as the deep conditioning treatments. The Anti-Frizz hair spray is my go to. The conditioning shine spray is also a nice way to add a touch of shine to your hair!
Basically you need to hurry in and get this treatment. Especially all of you who color your hair. An intensive treatment like this should be done every time you get color! If you don’t live in the tri-city area, find yourself a Paul Mitchell Salon!
Did you know a poor diet can lead to hair loss? The nutrients from foods we eat impacts the health of our hair. With proper nutrition and sulfate free cleansers/conditioners, you will not only have strong, healthy hair, but you will help the growing process! To better understand how hair growth works, I will break down the main phases of the growth cycle.
Three Phases of Hair Growth
The first stage of hair growth is Anagen or the “growth” phase. It occurs in the hair follicle. The hair remains in this stage for approximately 2-8 years and is usually determined by genetics. In this stage, the hair grows around 1 centimeter every 28 days. “The root of the hair is dividing rapidly, adding to the hair shaft.”
Catagen is the next stage. It lasts about 2-3 weeks and completes the active hair growth. The hair becomes “club” hair. “A club hair is formed during the catagen phase when the part of the hair follicle in contact with the lower portion of the hair becomes attached to the hair shaft.” Blood supply ceases at this this point. Once the club hair is completed, on to the telogen phase.
Telogen is known as the “resting phase” and lasts about 3 months. When the body becomes extremely stressed, up to 70% of the hair can enter this stage too early and cause hair loss. The club hair becomes “dead keratinized” hair and completes the telogen phase.
Avocados
Egyptians were known for using avocados in their hair because of their moisturizing qualities. Avocados are an excellent source of fatty acids and vitamins B and E.
Vitamin E is known for its protective qualities when it comes to the skin and scalp. If you are struggling with damage to your scalp, hair growth may be delayed. Your body cannot naturally produce the fatty acids it needs. They are necessary for healthy cells. “A deficiency in fatty acids have been linked to hair loss.”
Bottom line: Eat your guacamole! Avocados provide the essential vitamins and fatty acids your scalp and cells need to promote hair growth!
Sweet Potatoes
My fiance’ and I LIVE off sweet potatoes. They are full of beta-carotene which the body transforms into Vitamin A.
Vitamin A aids in the production of sebum. Sebum as we know is necessary to keep the hair naturally hydrated and healthy. Vitamin A has been thought to speed up the growth process but simultaneously protects the follicle as it does.
A sweet potato at about 114 grams has enough beta-carotene to create four times the amount vitamin A the body requires daily.
Spinach
Spinach is such an amazing, nutrient packed, vegetable. It contains vitamin A, iron, beta-carotene, folate and vitamin c. As previously discussed, vitamin A is great for sebum production. Beta-Carotene helps promote speedy hair growth and the folate and iron help battle brittle hair. If you do not receive enough of your daily iron intake, it can lead to hair loss.
Chicken and Turkey (The Lean Meats)
PROTEIN. Protein is immensely important to maintaining constant and consistent hair growth. When you do not get enough protein, your hair will become stagnant in growth and remain in a resting phase. Chicken and turkey are better options than pork and beef because the saturated fat content is significantly lower.
Eggs
Eggs are high in both protein and biotin. Biotin is a B vitamin. Biotin aids in hair and nail growth. If you are not receiving enough biotin in your diet, it can result in hair loss. If you think about it, your hair is made up of keratin, a protein. Your hair follicle needs that protein to produce healthy, strong hair.
Berries
Berries are full of vitamin C which is a powerful antioxidant. Antioxidants play an important role in keeping the follicle damage free from free radicals that are present in the environment. Vitamin C also is trivial to collagen protection. Collagen is important in fighting brittle hair, preventing breakage in the process.
1 cup of strawberries gives you 141% of your daily vitamin c intake.
Cinnamon
My favorite way to incorporate cinnamon into my diet is by sprinkling some in my coffee. It makes my coffee taste like fall all year round! You can also use a dash of cinnamon on your sweet potatoes! That’s how my fiance’ loves to eat his.
But, in all seriousness, cinnamon has numerous health benefits. Cinnamon is a great aid in circulation, it reduces heart disease and it is such a powerful antioxidant it can be used to preserve food.
By introducing cinnamon into your diet, it will help allow the nutrients and oxygen to reach the follicle because of its ability to enhance circulation.
You Are What You Eat
Eating these healthier, nutritious foods will only benefit you. You can’t expect to eat cheeseburgers and fries every day and have long, luscious, locks. Feeding your body what it needs to create strong, shiny, healthy hair is going to not only make YOU feel better, but make your hair feel like it has never felt before!
This week’s blog will be a little different. I am taking a step back from my usual DevaCurl posts to inform you all on a FREQUENT issue I see behind my chair…
Rewind several months back. I had a client come in with fine textured hair. Her hair was coated in a whitish substance making her brunette hair appear almost grey. She told me she had trouble with hair loss and keeping her hair from feeling dry. I asked her what she was using. She said Head and Shoulders.
Fast Forward to this week. My lovely client who has been coming to me for about six months now for manicures told me she has been frightened by the amount of hair she has been losing. I asked her what she has been using on her hair. She responded with head and shoulders because it was the only thing that seemed to help her scalp.
As I started to type all of this out, I texted my Fiance’. He has struggled with thinning hair and balding on the crown of his head. I asked him if he had used Head and Shoulders. He responded, yes, for about 10 years.
I am going to give you all a TON of information about scalp health. You are probably going to become tired of the monotonous scrolling you are about to embark on. I am going to thoroughly explain to you how a balanced scalp operates. Trust me. You will want to read this blog.
Dry Scalp… What is it, What Causes it?
There are TWO main sources of dry scalp: lack of hydration/moisture and over cleansing or shampooing your scalp; in the winter months the dry air can be a factor. As previously discussed in my last two posts, most shampoos have sulfates and they can be harsh on your scalp. If overused, the naturally occuring sebum oil in your hair/scalp will be stripped out, causing your scalp to become dry, itchy and flaky.
Dandruff
Dandruff is on the opposite spectrum of dry scalp. Dandruff is the result of the scalp shedding and can be caused by an oily scalp, but primarily caused by fungus Malassezia globosa and M. restricta.
Similarly to dry scalp, if you excessively wash your scalp, you can cause your scalp to overproduce oil. By cleansing your scalp too much, you are stripping the naturally occuring sebum oil out of your hair. Your scalp will feel the need to produce more because there isn’t enough present. Sebum oil is there to promote healthy growth of the hair and moisturize the scalp and root.
Hair pH
Healthy Cuticle Layer- Open/Damaged Cuticle Layer
The cuticle layer is the outermost layer of the hair. Its happy pH level is anywhere between a 4.5-5.5. This is acidic. Many shampoos have a basic/alkaline pH which can open the cuticle layer and cause repeated damage. If you are using a shampoo with a basic pH you are essentially drying out the cuticle layer. It will become more susceptible to tangles and to breakage. Without a balanced scalp pH, the growth of fungus and even bacteria can manifest. This can lead to dandruff.
Hair Follicle Anatomy
On your left you will see the anatomy of the hair. Locate the hair follicle. This is is important when it comes to build up of the ingredients I am about to list and survival of the hair. There are multiple hairs growing out of a single follicle. When these follicles become blocked or “clogged” they will begin to shrink. This will cause the existing hair in that follicle to fall out causing thinning and hair loss. Which is why when I have a new curly client, I always wash their hair with Build Up Buster to remove potential build up from the environment and products.
Head and Shoulders Ingredient Break Down
Pyrithione Zinc
Pyrithione Zinc 1% The Active Ingredient. PTZ is the essential ingredient in head and shoulders for demolishing dandruff. “It inhibits the division of fungal cells.” Which as previously discussed when fungus is present on the scalp (which can occur from a clogged follicle) it can lead to dandruff.
From what I have read, this ingredient doesn’t negatively affect the scalp. It truly benefits those with dandruff.
With that said, there were numerous reports of patients in an experiment who had psoriasis that had been stable for several years. When they used shampoo with PTZ, their flare up became severe, resulting in pustular psoriasis. “Within 20 days, she developed an aggravated scaly erythematous patch on the scalp, where an anti-dandruff shampoo had been applied, and simultaneously developed pustular psoriasis on both forearms. Patch testing showed a relevant sensitization to zinc pyrithione.”
Glycol Distearate
I have done quite a bit of digging from several websites to find information on Glycol Distearate. When I started reading about it, it all clicked.
Glycol Distearate is a white wax solid that is used to thicken up cosmetic products. It is also known for the “pearlized” effect to attract buyers. Other names for glycol distearate include: thylene glycol distearate; Ethylene distearate; Ethylene glycol dioctadecanoate.
“Glycol Distearate is made from ethylene glycol, which is used to make antifreeze, de-icing solutions for cars and planes, hydraulic brake fluids, lacquers, resins, wood stains, synthetic waxes.”
Needless to say, the simple fact that this ingredient is wax and is present in H&S shampoo it is going to cause an undoubtable amount of buildup on your scalp and at the follicle.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sulfate. The cleansing agents that create the lather and foam. SLS has been linked to hair loss. If the shampoo is not thoroughly rinsed from your hair, remaining SLS can protrude into the follicle. When this happens, the hair follicle will deteriorate and hair loss will occur.
“MaximumHair.com reports that SLS also affects the rate of new hair growth, which occurs at a rate about eight times slower than normal. In addition, Personal Health Facts reports that NaCL, the salt used as a thickening agent is drying to your hair and, by increasing the potential for breakage, also contributes to hair loss.”
Which if you note in the ingredient listing, Sodium Chloride (NaCL) is in fact present.
Dimethicone
Silicone. “Dimethicone (also called polymethylsiloxane) is a silicon-based polymer used as a lubricant and conditioning agent.”
It is a false representation of hydration. It will give your hair slip, but it is actually coating the cuticle layer. This will cause buildup and prevent necessary moisture penetration into the cuticle. Without proper hydration, hair will continue to feel dry and brittle and will become susceptible to breakage.
This ingredient is banned for cosmetics in European SCCS, German BFR, Canada, Japan’s Standards for Cosmetics.
While this is a common preservative used in cosmetics in the united states, it has been linked to numerous allergic reactions. It has also been listed as possibly “neurotoxic.”
Quoted from dictionary.com the definition of neurotoxic is stated as such, “Poisonous to the nervous system.”
Powerful Disclaimer
The Procter and Gamble Manufacturing Company has posted this disclaimer regarding Head and Shoulders Clean Classic.
“Most OTC drugs are not reviewed and approved by FDA. However they may be marketed if they comply with applicable regulations and policies. FDA has not evaluated whether this product complies. “
The Procter and Gamble Manufacturing Company also produces Pantene, Herbal Essences, Aussie and Olay.
Should You Use Head and Shoulders?
As a licensed cosmetologist, I do not recommend using this shampoo. The amount of harmful ingredients in this product is not going to be beneficial for your hair. The wax will cause build up, the sulfates will strip the natural sebum from your hair. If you notice that your hair seems thinner and brittle, the use of this product is the reason why. While hair loss may not be immediate, the longer you use this product the it will become noticable.
Where To Go From Here
Go to your stylist. Get a clarifying treatment. Malibu C is my preferred choice for an intense clarifying treatment. Paul Mitchell’s Shampoo Two is also beneficial. Begin the process of removing the build up from your hair and opening up your follicles. You will most likely need a deep condition treatment. The salt present in H&S Shampoo will cause breakage and brittleness and dehydrate the hair. The HydraTriplex treatment by Paul Mitchell is phenomenal. It simultaneously hydrates and strengthens hair.
Are you glad you read all of this? I hope you are. The more you know about what ingredients are in the products you are using the more you will begin to understand why your hair is responding the way that it is.
Frizz. The most annoying, talked about thing when it comes to curly hair. When looking online to find a picture of wet frizz, several suggested links popped up. How do I get rid of my frizz? What products do I need? WHY is my hair frizzy? What is wet frizz?
Hydration, Hydration, Hydration, it is the key to kicking out frizz.
You should be deep conditioning your hair once a week EVERY WEEK!! If you have extremely dry, parched hair, you can use it more often. The two deep conditioners I SWEAR by are Heaven In Hair and Melt into Moisture by DevaCurl. Both deliver moisturizing, frizz fighting ingredients to tame your wild mane.
Heaven In Hair
This is one of my all time favorite products, when used correctly It will WORK. The three main ingredients in this incredible product are Cacao Butter, to soften and nourish, Cupuacu Butter, for long-lasting moisture and better elasticity (the bounce back) and Murumuru Butter to add shine and protect your curls. You do not have to rinse all of this product out, but it is recommended. The potential to weigh down your curls is present. If your curls are severely dry, you may want to consider leaving some of this in your hair.
Curls with Deep Conditioner
After thoroughly cleansing your hair, take a generous amount of product and finger walk it through sections of your hair. This is the most IMPORTANT step of applying this product. As you finger walk through your curls, make sure they are completely coated in this deep conditioner. You want your curls to feel like silk. If you run your fingers through the section and they still feel dry, or rough when you touch them, add more conditioner and continue to finger walk the product through until your curls are silky, smooth. If you do not thoroughly coat each strand your hair will likely end up with wet frizz. You can rinse out the product after several minutes or leave it in for up to 30 minutes.
Melt Into Moisture
Melt Into Moisture is an INTENSE deep conditioning treatment. If you feel your curls are super dry, brittle and tangled, you need this rich treatment. The three main ingredients in Melt Into Moisture are Matcha Green Tea Butter, to retain moisture and seal the cuticle, Beet Root Extract, to improve elasticity and aid in protecting color and Sweet Almond Oil, to nourish and moisturize your curls.
This is not a leave-in product, but there are some exceptions. You can leave it in for several minutes after thoroughly cleansing your hair or you can leave it in for 15-20 minutes with a processing cap. BUT, the best thing with this product is you can leave it in overnight and wash it out in the morning! This is great for hair that is CRAVING that extra hydration. Use this product once a week, more if you believe you need to. Finger walk it the same as you would Heaven In Hair.
Hydration, Hydration, Hydration
As long as you are thoroughly conditioning and coating each curl, you will avoid any issues with wet frizz. Making sure your curls are hydrated is the best way to avoid frizz all together. The quality of the product you are using is immensely important. Tying in to my last blog about sulfates, silicones and parabens, if your product has any of these, the ability for any moisture to get through to the cuticle and prevent frizz will be blocked. Take your time in the shower, cleanse and condition thoroughly and you will permanently kick frizz right out of your curls!
All About That Hair 